• Leathers:  What you should know.
• What tires should I use?
• What should you change first on your bike? 
• Star School evaluated.
• Hit a plateau?  What's going on? 
• Keith Code School evaluated. 
• Why tire warmers?
• Suggestions on purchasing a track bike.
• Thinking about venturing out on the track for the first time?

 Leathers.  So many choices so little money.

You’ve been to a few track days, bought a few track specific items, and are now thinking of making more of a commitment.  You might be thinking about racing, or merely attending more track days in the future.  In any case, barrowing, renting, or using your cheap leathers doesn’t make much sense.  What are your choices?

Tires, Ooooh the expense....

If you've raced a single weekend, you know how tires can wear out your wallet.  Start riding at a faster pace, and you can cook a set in a single day.  The tires you pick can either be based on what works best, or price.  Very seldom do both of these requirements match.

Our race team has been through many sets of tires (8 a weekend), and we have used just about everything out there.  Everything from the affordable Bridgestone 001 (03 model), to Dunlop (DOT & Slicks).  Our conclusion?  You can ride on anything, however, you're never going to be happy  if you let price be the main factor.  There are some ways of playing it smart.

I would suggest running the cheapest race tires you can find at first.  As your confidence increases, and you start "feeling" what the tires are doing, then switch to something different.  To many first time racers run out and buy what all the fast riders are using.  We did the same thing.  If they're using a tire, how could you go wrong...?  Well, the key thing to remember is, they are "using" the tire to it's limit.  You won't be.  They have graduated to a level you can only dream of at this point.  Using their tires is much like being a small plane pilot, then jumping into a F-16.  You won't have a clue how to get the most out of what you have.  Go with what is on sale, or cheap.  We used the Bridgestone last year because it was the cheapest tire on the planet.  It did everything we asked, and then some.  Most important, it saved us about $100 a set....

The next step would be to choose a brand, and stick with it.  Every tire acts slightly different.  The Bridgestone's liked to slide, but less than the DOT Dunlop's.  The Metzler/Pirelli's have a very soft feel, and absorb much of the imperfections on the track.  They slide very little.  The Michelin's turn in fast, but are somewhere between the Pirelli's and the Dunlop's when it comes to slide.  When you graduate to a better tire, try out several, but then settle on one manufacturer.  We've seen to many riders jump around all season.  Don't do this, it only confuses you.  

Don't make this move until you really start "feeling" the tires move under you.  I'm not talking about getting on the gas and having the rear tire slide.  Anyone can do this.  I'm talking more about the small movements that happen at full lean, under hard breaking, and while finishing a turn.  If you can't feel a thing, go back to the cheap tires until you can.  Even the cheapest of race tires, will handle what you can throw at them at this point.

Another thing to look at is contingency.  Which companies are supporting your track?  If only Dunlop is there, then I would suggest giving them every chance to make it on your bike.  If you're running at the front, this extra money can really help.  There's nothing like having a check arrive, to help with the tire bill.  Also, find out how these vendors pay out contingency.  Contingency is great, only if you get your money/credits before the next event.  Some companies are slow in paying out, others have been know to pay out in only a few weeks.

Our team has settled on Dunlop.  Most of our guys have fallen in love with Dunlop's new 190 slick.  Dunlop also has an outstanding vendor at the track, and they get you your payout somewhat fast.  However, Pirelli and Michelin are also out there offering great contingency.  It really comes down to what you fall in love with, and feel fast on.

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New bike?  What should you do first to get it race ready?

We get asked all the time, mostly by new racers, what's the most important after market improvement for their race bike.  Many are steered in the direction of a new pipe, or a Power Commander.  Not bad choices, but we feel they are both down the list a bit.

First, take a look in the mirror.  What size are you?  Why?  It makes a huge difference on how the bike will work as it sits.  If you weight under 170lbs. the springs that come stock in your bike will be fine.  Rip off the stock plastic, sell it on Ebay, and get some race plastic.  You’re ready to race…!

Now, what if you’ve done some Track Days, and you’re pushing your stock suspension to its limit, and possibly beyond.  It’s time to do your first upgrade, the suspension…

There's zero use in buying performance add-ons, if you can’t apply all that new found power to the ground.   Your bike must be rock solid to take advantage of any power increase.  Sure, its cool to sit around the pits and tell everyone that your 600 makes 109hp, but if you’re finishing behind the guy with 98hp, people will start shaking their heads…  Fix your bikes suspension, before anything else.

I’m going to move past bike set-up.  Adjusting the static sag, compression & rebound is a given.  Get with someone who knows what they’re doing, and make sure you knock this out.  Without this, MotoGP suspension parts won’t help.

There are simple fixes, which can consist of simply installing lighter/heavier springs.  If you’re over 170lbs, you won’t believe the improvement.  The bikes suspension will stay centered, allowing the stock valving to work at 100%.  This alone should take you well into your first year of racing.  We have guys on our team finishing well, with nothing but the correct weight springs.

The next step would be valving front and rear.  The process is very simple, but the results are incredible.  If the valving is installed correctly, it can take a second off your lap time.  It does away with most of the bad, and elevates your suspension package to a higher level.  But don’t be fooled…  If you’re not riding fast enough to stress the suspension, you’re wasting your money.  You won’t notice the benefits unless you’re riding at a brisk pace.  Stay with the stock valving until you get to this point.  Jumping the gun, and buying parts before you need them, doesn’t make sense.

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Jason Pridmore Star School, by Todd Mittness (Owner)

If you’ve read my review of the Keith Code School, you’ll see a long and involved recount of what I was taught during the weekend.  I honestly can’t do this with the Star school.  Before I get to involved with my evaluation, I want to make one thing clear.  This is my personal impression of the school, and may be different than someone else who attended.  However, I want to present my impressions honestly, not pull punches to only be “Politically Correct”.  It’s not my nature pull punches, and in the end helps no one if I do.

I would like to start by stating that Puhrump is an excellent track.  It has a little of everything, and is the ideal track to hold a riding school.  The sad part is, I didn’t feel the Star school utilized the facility as well as they could. 

Myself, and 4 friends, attended the Saturday and Sunday school.  We decided to place ourselves in the advanced class, which on Saturday had approximately 30 riders.  Overall attendance on Saturday was huge, and I found out later that it was sold-out.  The day started with Jason introducing himself, and the instructors, to the class.  I was surprised to see that there appeared to be only a few instructors on staff for the weekend.  I was also disappointed that the students were not assigned an instructor for the day.  We were told that the instructors would be on the track while we rode, and if we had any questions, they would be available between sessions. 

Jason made it very clear that he wanted everyone’s questions answered, and essentially placed the responsibility on the students.  Stories of past students, who claimed to not be happy with the instruction, we’re used as an example of what not to do.  Jason stated that these students never asked questions, so therefore didn’t feel they were getting the attention they required.  Being the first day, and new to the school, this seemed silly.  I later found that I had many issues in common with these past students. 

In a way I understand Jason’s approach, but I feel some key issues are being overlooked.  First, whom do you speak with?  Without an instructor being assigned to each student, it was difficult to express on track problems.  The instructors were on the track, but without some type of system in place to focus their attention, how can they be expected to focus on one riders riding technique?  Also, how do the students identify which instructor followed them around for two laps.  The student’s attention is divided enough, without trying to remember what name is sewn on the back of an instructor’s leathers.  The instructors also rode pretty much the same looking bike, and wore the same color leathers… 

The riding sessions begin after a classroom lesson.  Jason did most of the instruction, and focused his lessons on looking at the track from a different perspective.  He made reference to other teaching philosophies, and made it clear that his approach was different.  An example would be entry into a corner.  Jason instructed that many riders are taught to enter a corner from the outermost part of the track.  He felt this was a waste of track, and instructed us to enter the corner tight, focusing on shortening the distance between corners.  This made sense, and was an interesting drill to focus on while riding. 

During the first session on Saturday I was passed by an instructor and asked to follow.  I was later waived into the hot pit and asked to get off the bike.  The instructor commented that he felt my riding position was hindering my ability to control the bike while in a corner, and asked that I conduct a short drill to solidify his point.  He asked that I kneel down, and pivot my hips side to side.  As I preformed the drill, it was pointed out how my body fell into the proper position to make a turn.  Also, it was intended to show how balanced this position was, and how balance played a key roll in carving the ideal turn.  I was then instructed to shift my weight to one side, without pivoting, allowing me to see how off balance I was in this position.  The point was very valid, and after returning to the track I attempted to use this new position until the session finished. 

Without getting into the outcome using this technique, I would rather focus on what occurred afterward.  Nothing.  I expected the instructor to follow, observing.  Like most, I was trying something new, and was having a difficult time.  It would have been very helpful to have him follow, and later speak with me about what he observed.  I understood I could approach him between sessions, but felt discouraged that he wouldn’t have seen me while riding.  I could have described my problems, but if he had followed, he would have been able to correct any mistakes.  It just felt a little detached. 

The remaining sessions and classroom instruction stayed about the same.  We were given something to focus on during the session, and then talked briefly about how it went on the track the session before.  Many of the lessons were not explained in detail, or several were presented.  No on-track training aids were used (reference cones, tape on track showing the ideal turn in points, breaking markers).  The lack of these aids made executing the drills difficult.  The instructor’s, who were on the track while we rode, were not present during the classroom meetings.  They were on the track, with the other group.  This made it very difficult to speak with an instructor who “might” know a little about your current progress. 

Another point that frustrated our group was the passing rule.  Passes could only be made on the outside of turns.  Keep in mind; we were in the advanced group.  For the first few sessions this would have been easy to swallow, but all weekend?  The instructors of course passed were they wanted.  There were times, when riders traveling much slower were in front, and passes took a long time to complete.  They could have been made easily, at several locations on the track, but who wants to be the one to spook a student off the track.  Also, many of the riders were using new techniques, and drifting wide in turns.  Coming around the outside wasn’t always the safest spot. 

During the weekend the lead instructor asked the students if we wanted to watch a demo of the instructors (and Jason) going through some of the more challenging corners.  Most raised their hands, to include our group.  Everyone pilled into their vehicles, drove out to several corners, and watched Jason and the instructors.  It was interesting to watch, but didn’t really help anyone in our group.  The bottom line was that Jason could do things on a bike that we could only dream of.  If I went out on the track and tried to do the same, I would only crash.  How helpful is this, beyond the excitement of watching Jason up close?  It also took over an hour to finish.  The point of the exercise was to observe their lines.  The funny part, they didn’t always use the lines instructed… 

One lesson emphasized having a plan on the track.  The meat of this lesson was to teach that passes are to be thought out, well before they are attempted.  A very good point, but once again, I felt way to much time was wasted expressing this point.  During this lesson we watched a tape of an AMA race where a rider crashed into a lapped rider.  Everyone in my group had seen this footage on Speed, so we became frustrated that valuable track times was once again being wasted.  The point was valid, but did this much time need to be used to express it? 

Did I walk away with anything?  I did, but nothing even close to making me feel good about making the trip, and spending the $1000 to attend.  The class did show that I could be more balanced on the bike, and I look forward to perfecting this new technique. 

Would I recommend the Star School?  The answer is simple, NO.  The structure of the course is not what I feel helps riders progress.  In my opinion the drills need to be well defined, not just explained.  There also needs to be an instructor assigned to each student.  Without this, the students and instructors remain separate.  There’s no teamwork.  I wasn’t the only person in our group to feel this way. 

If you’re thinking about attending a school for the first time, and are torn between the Code school and Star, I recommend Code.  As I mention in my article about the Code school, it’s very well put together, and at the end of the day you feel good about spending the money.

What would I change about the Star School? 

1. As mentioned above, each student needs to be assigned an instructor.  Meetings need to be held after every session with these instructors.
2. More training aids on the track.  At times an instructor would stand on the side of the track, at certain corners to observe, but this isn’t enough.
3. More drills performed off the track.  As an example, a body position drill.  This would allow for a closer look at the pro’s and cons of a students riding.
4. More focus during the classroom sessions.  Many minor points were dragged on way to long.  Often a few questions from the students would extend the classroom time.
5. More on track drills.  More focus on turn-in points using the various lines.  Also, breaking markers would have been helpful.
6. Become more organized.  Lessons need to be to the point, and direct.  As mentioned above, on track references need to be used with the actual classroom lesson.

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What does it take to get faster?

Now that the year is coming to an end, several members of our team have started to evaluate their season.  While most have progressively become faster, others have hit plateaus.  It's easy to see, when you compare their progress with others in our racing clubs.  At the first of the year they were hanging with some guys, dicing it up every race.  But now these guys are getting trophies, while they are still bringing up the back.  What's the secret?  Not protesting to be an expert on the subject, but I do have a few opinions.

Racing isn't about the motorcycle, but the rider.  Oh, and by the way, motorcycle racing is a sport.  If you don't have the correct mindset, and work at your weaknesses, you won't become faster.  Several of our members have decided that no practice is needed.  They show up for the race weekends, and expect to do better than last month.  How many sports do you know where practicing once a month leads to rapid improvement?  If you're gifted, and there are some riders out there that are, this might be enough.  However, the average rider needs practice to improve.  Unfortunately, because our sport is expensive, extra practice is out of the question for some.  Then what do you do?

The next step would be to practice when you have the chance.  I've seen riders complain about their progress, but spend most of their practice time sitting in a chair in the pits.  What sense does this make?  If you're at the track, get out there and ride.  I've heard every excuse under the sun.  Everything from, "I'm saving my tires" to, "I don't want to tire myself out before the race."  Ok, these would work, but if you’re not practicing, you’re not getting faster.  If you’re out of shape, start working out.  If you’re tires are worn, bring another set.  They don’t need to be new, use a set of take-offs.  The key is saddle time. 

Suspension is another “Huge” excuse I’ve heard come from riders not improving.  “My suspension sucks, and I don’t have money to fix it.”  Granted, suspension is huge, but those that are fast, would be fast on “any” bike.  They adjust their riding style, and overcome the bikes shortcomings.  They understand that through practice, a bad bike setup is only an inconvenience.  I’ve seen guys come into the pits, ask a fast guy to ride their bike to find the "problem", and watch as their bike travels around the track at near record times…  This isn’t magic, the rider identifies the bikes weaknesses, and compensates.

There are those that can practice all the time, but still need help.  This is where riding schools come in.  You could be riding hard, but not smart.  I don’t care who you are, everyone can benefit from a riding school.  For those that want to improve, it’s a must.  Again, it’s not about the bike, but the rider.  If you’re out there making a ton of mistakes, you won’t get faster.  And if you think you’re above attending a school, get used to the back of the pack.  Every top-notch rider has attended some type of school.  Whether it’s at the club level, an informal chat with a local fast guy who’s willing to help, or a professional school conducted by a seasoned nationally ranked rider.  Knowledge is power on the racetrack.

There are times when you will do everything you can to improve, but yet your times don't come down.  If this is happening to you, join the rest of us.  It's normal.  There will be times when you do everything you can to make progress, but don't.  It might be time for a mental break.  If you're riding, thinking about every corner, you won't be relaxed.  Take a step back, and start focusing on having fun.  There have been times when I've gone out on the track, and purposely entered corners out of position, just to see where I ended up.  Stop focusing on improving, and just ride for the fun of it.  Once your mind is clear, you will see that your times will start coming down.

The hardest part of improving, is finding your weaknesses.  If it’s motivation, then decide where you want to go, and what goals you want to achieve.  If you’re out of shape, start doing something about it.  If you’re relying on natural talent to get you by, then start looking for a school.  The bottom line is, what you’re doing now, isn’t working.  It’s time to step outside the box, and find another approach.  If you don’t, then start becoming content at your current level of progress.  If you quit out of frustration, you were riding for all the wrong reasons.  If you stay with the sport, ride because it's fun, and stop worrying about your lap times.  Put the excuses in the closet, no one wants to hear them.  We “do” have control over our riding progress.  It’s all about commitment.

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When does racing hard, turn into racing stupid??

If you race, then you’ve either been involved in a tight situation, or caused one.  But when does hard racing, turn into racing stupid?  Is it when you try a tight pass on the inside, but mid-corner find you over estimated the room?  Or found you couldn’t hold your line because you under estimating your entry speed?  Hey, everything looked great just before you leaned the bike in.  Should you be accused of being over zealous on the racetrack if things turn messy?  Whether you’re racing for first, or second to last, it’s still racing.  Decisions are made in a split second, which at times can make things a little dicey.

I’m a huge baseball fan, and I marvel at how the pitchers can hurl a ball at nearly 100mph towards a small plate, just feet from a fellow human.  These guys practice everyday, tossing 1000’s of pitches a week, working on the location of their pitches.  But even after all this practice, batters get hit.  Sure, sometimes it’s on purpose, but I would say most are by accident.  The pitch just got away from the pitcher.   The batter wears protective gear because of this possibility, and before he approaches the batters box, understands its just part of the game.  And to those that think getting hit by 100mph pitch can’t cause damage, you’re nuts.  That fact is, accidents will happen.

If you’re racing, you are going to crash.  That’s just part of the game.  Most of the time it will be caused by something you did wrong, bad tires, conditions, but there will be occasions when other riders will be involved.  With time and experience most figure out how to limit those odds, but they will never get down to zero.  Every racer is on the track to have fun, and should understand that passing someone in a turn can be dangerous.  However, if riders never push themselves into attempting a pass, we wouldn’t be calling it “Racing”, but rather “Follow the leader”.

I’ll share an incident that happened to me in Las Vegas a few months ago.  I was mid-pack and dicing it up with a group of four.  On the prior lap I had been measuring up the guy in front of me, and by the second lap I found a corner where I could get a better drive and make the pass on the following corner.  Several corners before the move,  I made a mental checklist.  I told myself that if I didn’t get enough drive out of the corner and get even with the rider by the mid point on the small exit straight, I would not attempt the pass.  However, if even, or slightly in front, and in the middle of the track, I would out brake him to the turn and go for it.  I had practiced this during the two days of practice, and new I could make the turn from this point on the track.

As I hoped, I had a better line through the turn and found myself slightly ahead of the rider before the next turn.  Every check on my checklist had been met, now it was time to make the pass.  I got on the brakes hard, and unlike the practice sessions, the rear tire came up.  I adjusted, got the rear tire down in time to get the bike leaned over, but I had gone slightly deeper than I had planned.  No big deal, and I thought the pass was made.  Just as I settled in, I was hit from the outside, knocking my bike to the ground.  My bike slammed into the track, then taught and high-sided.  The second rider involved recovered, but ended up riding off the track, only to crash after hitting a ditch in the run-off area.  Later inspection of my bike showed rear tire marks on my bikes front fairing, wind-shield and fender.  It appeared I had been clipped in the front at full lean as the other rider crossed in front.

What happened?  Plan and simple, a motorcycle race.  I had my plan, and the other rider had his.  He apparently was looking to take the corner wide, allowing him to square it off and beat me out the other side.  Great plan, but two great plans can lead to a crash.  I wanted the pass; he wanted to stay in front.  Could I have waited, and attempted the pass in another corner?  Sure, but when would that pass appear any safer?  Could the other rider had let up, and attempted a pass later?  You bet, but again, he thought his plan, at this corner, would work.

Now I’m not advocating reckless riding.  But short of intentional contact, where is that line drawn?  Corners are where passes are made.  They are also where crashes happen.  As a racer, all we can do is sharpen our riding skills, and our track awareness.  Get by those that appear to be possible issues, give room to those that have the advantage, and focus on having fun.

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Keith Code School By Todd (Owner)

How many times have  you wished you could perfect the ideal riding style?  Have you ever been on the track, trying to do everything right, but for whatever reason, things just won't come together?  I decided to give the Keith Code Superbike School a go, and see what kind of improvement could be made.  Of course, the Code Schools have been around for many years, and I decided to make it my first choice.

I  signed up for the Level 1 class on Saturday & Level 2 on Sunday.  Wanting to get the maximum effect, I returned Wednesday & Thursday for the CodeRace school.  Nothing like a full week of riding to get the basics down.  Besides that, it typically takes me a little longer than most to grasp the basics.

I found that Level 1 was very basic, but by the end of the day I was happy that I attended.  Many of the lessons were common sense, but putting them all together on the track was very helpful.  It's one thing to understand that you should be light on the bars in a turn, but another to actually apply the technique on the track.  Level 1 covered basic body position, lean angle, braking, entry speed into a turn, reference points, and most importantly, throttle control.

Each student was assigned an instructor, and after each session you would have a short meeting to talk about the drill you were assigned.  I found this extra time very valuable, and I felt it made the session complete.  During the sessions, the instructor would follow me around the track for a few laps.  This of course allowed them to get a feel for how I was doing, and what cardinal rules were being broken.  I never paid attention to who was behind me, so when they passed (typically in a turn) it came as a surprise.  The instructors also liked to give the back of their bikes a pat (sign to follow), allowing them to do some on-track coaching.

The Level 1off-track training involved the "No BS" bike (Body Steering).  The drill was to check your body position on the bike, and allowed the instructors an opprotunity to get a closer look at how I was steered the bike.  I didn't find the drill super helpful, but It did force me to think about what I was doing while on the bike.  Nothing like someone watching to force you to focus on the task at hand.

Level 2 focused on visual skills, and how to process information quickly.  I found it a challenge to use the skills taught in level 1, along with the new drills during level 2.  But after about a 1/2 day of riding, it started to come together.  By the end of the day I truly felt my riding skills had improved.  Level 2 also incorporates the lean bike.

On the drive home I had a chance to relax and think about what I had learned, and what areas of my riding had improved.  It was tough to narrow it to one thing, but I would have to say my confidence took the largest leap.  In the past I would enter a turn, do my thing and not be 100% sure how the corner would turn out.  I was also unsure of what the bike was doing underneath me.  Understanding how a bike turns, and how I could help, made a World of difference.  Level 1 & 2 also taught me some solid reference points, allowing me to focus on perfecting the perfect turn.  This alone was a huge leap.

CodeRace:

Wednesday and Thursday I returned for the CodeRace school.  I was excited to apply my new skills, and fine tune them in a race environment.  The class was smaller, and the instruction was more detailed.  The instructors were assigned only two students, and the total class size was 8.  Small group, big track.

The school focused on lines, and how to exit the turner with the highest speed possible.  Many of the skills from level 1 & 2 were stressed, so I was glad I took the extra training.  Would I have needed to take level 1 & 2 to get the most out of the instruction?  While it's not mandatory to attend any of the levels, I was glad I did.  I felt very comfortable talking to the instructors after each session, because we spoke the same language.  If they pointed something out during a session, I understood exactly what I was doing wrong.  I wouldn't have had this advantage if I had just showed up for the race school.

After the first session I was approached by my instructor and asked to get on my bike.  He had noticed an issue with my body position, and wanted it taken care of before the next session.  Apparently I wasn't hanging off the bike enough, and forcing the bike into some extreme lean angles during the tighter turns.  By the end of the lesson I knew exactly what I was doing wrong.  The next time on the track it was as if a light went on.  Every aspect of my riding improved, and I finally felt in control, rather than the bike.

During the third session however, I blew the banked "bowl turn" and low sided.  The bike was fine, other than a ground down foot peg (Vortex), damaged plastic, and a broken brake lever.  I was lucky.  The bike was easily repaired between sessions, and I was unhurt.  Instead of being upset and confused about what I done, I was able to learn from the experience.  I knew exactly what I had done to cause the crash, and understood what I needed to do differently next time.  I was also surprised that the corner didn't create any mental hang-ups.  This was my first "real" crash, and I had seen others carry baggage well into the future.  This alone was a huge confidence builder, and by the end of the day I had this corner mastered.

The first day ends with a race.  Our position on the grid was determined by our lap times during the day, with the faster times up front.  I had taken it easy throughout the day, focusing on improving my skills.  My attitude was to get my money's worth, and focus on getting every drill/lesson correct.  Needless to say, I was at the back of the pack for the start of the race.  We had practiced starts earlier in the day, which I hoped would help.  I started well, moving through the pack, and ended up finishing third.  

** Word of advise, if you can bring your own bike, do it.  During the race, one of the students on a Code bike ran off the track.  He didn't go down, but still managed to do $750.00 worth of damage...

Day two was much like the first day.  Braking was the focus, and several drills took place to master smooth down shifts and hard braking.  They ran the course backwards, allowing us to come down a hill (turn #1) at speed, braking for the skid-pad turn.  After the drill, graphs were shown, showing us how smooth we did the above.  It was easy to see how smooth, or rough, we were on the controls.  Additional corner drills were taught, and of course further instruction was had on the basics.

The second day ended with a qualifying session for the final race of the school.  I managed to get one lap in on a free track, and posted the second fastest time.  I felt great, and found I was over 10 seconds faster than the prior day.  Not saying a ton, since I hadn't been pushing the day before, but I was still surprised.  There were some very quick guys, who had been producing excellent times during the two day class.

The race started great, and all the "start training" paid off.  I managed to go into the first turn in second, and two laps later took the lead.  At one point I was able to break away, but soon was joined by two of the faster riders.  With 2 laps remaining I was passed for the lead, and ended finishing second.  Lap times?  My best was 1:31.  Not bad, since many of the Expert riders pull down 1:28's during an average CCS weekend.

Conclusion:

Would I recommend the Keith Code school?  You bet.  The courses are not cheap, however, you get what you pay for.  The instruction was outstanding, and everyone had plenty of track time.  Keith taught most of the classes personally, and rode in the morning sessions during the race school.  I found it fun to see how long I could hang behind, before dropping off the back.  Keith is the first to explain that most of his instructors are faster (he explained he leaves the fast stuff to the younger guys), but don't let that fool you, he did write the book...

A small continental breakfast and lunch was provided, so I never went hungry.  It was also nice that the class was small.  I found it helpful to speak with the other students during the breaks, and my questions to the instructors never went unanswered.

What would I like to see changed?  Everyone's a critic...  

1. During the sessions a camera bike was used to video the students..  We were never told when the bike would be on the track, and never knew when it was behind.  The problem?  I felt it wasn't on the track enough.  Some students were taped every session, while others never made it to the big screen.  I was only taped once, for one lap.  In my opinion, this isn't enough.  I would assign the camera bike to each student for one complete session, or at least several laps.  Watching yourself on tape is a huge plus, and an outstanding training tool.
2. I would also put more focus on suspension set-up, and how this can effect the bike.  It was touched on, but it would have been nice if it was covered in greater detail.  Things like, if the rebound is set to high, how will the bike react?  If the bike pushes in a turn, what would be the first thing to check.
3. The "Lean Bike" should first be demonstrated by an instructor.  You get on the thing, and sort of feel things out for the first part of the training.  It would have been great to first watch someone do it, then jump on.  It's not a natural feeling in the first place, so seeing the bike put through it's paces would have been a plus.
4. Having an assigned instructor is great, but it would have been nice to have another instructor involved for one session.  This would have been extremely helpful in the Level schools.  I personally like to have as much feedback as possible, from a variety of sources.  Besides, the second instructor might see something that your assigned instructor missed.  Two heads are always better than one...
5. Lap timers on every bike.  After the session you do get your times from the transponder, but having these times on the track would be a huge plus.  Many of the students who brought their own bikes already had timers, so all that was needed was a transmitter.

I'm looking forward to applying my new skills in the up coming events, and returning for Level 3 and 4.  I might be getting up there in years, but knowledge is power...

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Why tire warmers?

Time for a “track only” bike?  Here are some suggestions.

If you spend enough time attending track days, there will come a day when riding your "street legal" bike will become a burden.  The stress of the “what ifs” will start to take a little of your fun away in every corner.  Everyone reaches this point, but buying a bike can be expensive.  However, nothing is as expensive as replacing an OEM part.  One small piece of OEM plastic can run $400.  Well, what do you do?

First, decide what type of bike you want.  Sounds simple, but you can handicap yourself down the road if you jump into something without giving it some serious thought.  Don’t focus on today, but one year down the road (track).  What is fine now, may not be enough later.  If you’re thin, and less than 170lbs, it will be tough to reach the limit of a 600cc sport bike.  However, if you’re riding hard at an intermediate level, and over 170lbs, that 600cc bike can start to seem small.  Your times will be limited by your weight.  Sure, there are a few things you can bolt on, or use race fuel, but who really wants to do that when you don’t need too?

We often hear that a 1000cc bike, “is to big (powerful) for the average rider".  That the larger bikes are hard to handle on the track and that buying a big bike is a huge mistake.  I don’t agree.  Big bikes (1000cc) are heavier (slightly), but if set-up correctly they feel no larger from the saddle.  Granted, you'll need to be smooth on the throttle, and possibly adjust your riding style a bit, but horse power is your friend.  I've never heard an intermediate or advanced rider complain that their bikes are too fast…  If anything they want more.

If you’re simply looking for a fun bike, and don’t care about lap times (but you will), then buy something familiar.  Even 600cc bikes go fast enough to scare the Hell out of you.

Don’t buy new.

Once you decided which bike, start looking through your local paper and cycle sales magazines.  The key is to find a bike a few years old.  Granted, every year the manufacturers come out with something new, but the differences are often few.  If the bike is a 2002 of newer, it will suit your needs.

Stock plastic in GREAT shape is a must..!!

If you plan on stripping the bike down and adding race plastic, the bikes stock plastic is the key.  If the prior owner shaved off the rear fender, or cut holes for some fancy turn signals, it will effect it’s aftermarket value.  You want the bike as close to stock as possible.  Look close for road rash.  Every scratch matters.  The ideal bike is one that was purchased by a young rider, who later found out it was to much bike.  Also, look at the tires.  They will give you some insight into how the bike was ridden.  If the bike is 3 years old, but has the original tires, this is a good thing.  The last bike we bought was owned by a college student who thought he would ride it to school.  It looked almost new, and we picked it up cheap.

Ebay

The bike is home, you’ve removed all the stock plastic, but now what do you do with it?  The answer is Ebay.  Depending on the bike, the time of year, and it’s condition you can sell most of your stock parts for more than you think.  Keep in mind, there are riders out there that have damaged their bike, and now want to repair it.  Dealerships want a HUGE amount of money for new OEM parts, so your plastic is a bargain.  We stripped down a 1999 Yamaha R-1, and walked away with over $1200.00.  Also, sell the head light separate.  Headlights become damaged all the time, and the Dealers want over $400 for them alone.  By the time everything walks out the door, you will have plenty of money for race plastic, and some fancy after market parts.

What should you purchase with the extra money?

1. After race plastic I would suggest suspension work.  Race shocks and folks are great, but you can spend 1/5^th the money on a good re-valve and correct springs (for your riding weight).  You may, or may not feel 10hp from a new pipe, but you will feel a good suspension setup.
2. Once the suspension is done, then I would pony up for exhaust system.  By changing out this one part you can gain 10hp, and drop over 20lbs.  Less weight, better handling and power.  Do your homework before you buy.  Not every exhaust system works on every bike, also price has little to do with performance.  We’ve found the M-4 full race setup gives us the most bang for the buck, but talk to someone who specializes in exhaust.
3. Don’t forget frame sliders.  No use buying all that plastic, only to have it shredded during the first slide.
4. Rear-sets, clip-ons, and engine gadgets are all nice, but can be added at a later time.  At this point work on riding technique.

Should you buy a bike already setup for the track?

You can, but often the bikes for sale have a history.  If you know the owner, are confident that the bike has been maintained, and the price is right, I would say go for it.  If not, buy a fresh bike off the street.

Are all street bikes perfect?  You can never be 100% sure, but odds are it hasn’t been crashed, or ridden “super” hard.  Of course you always fear that the prior owner was a wheelie king, but if they have maintenance records, and the bike is original, the odds are you’ll be safe.  Change out the oil and put some "good" race oil in the case. 

Side Note:  Be careful of the track/race bike wearing street clothing...  Some riders buy a bike, decide to hit the track, and keep the stock plastic in the garage.  Once the season is over, the race equipment comes off, and the stock plastic goes back on.  Of course you hope the person selling the bike is honest, and discloses this fact, but nothing is wrong with asking questions.  Some parts typically remain on the bike that can give you clues.

• Suspension Work:  Very few "street only" riders buy performance suspension.  If you see aftermarket suspension work, ask about it.  If the seller is a "canyon carver" and wanted upgraded suspension, this might fly.  Ask if the bike has been on the track.  If he's done a few track days, and the bike is in great condition, then no worries.  However, the key here is to get a "fresh" bike and engine.

• Ground frame sliders.  Used sliders and new plastic is a clue.  They may have been replaced, so look close to see if they are on straight.  Sliders can be replaced, but the bolt holding it to the bike might still be bent.

• High performance tires.  Most track bikes have aftermarket track tires.  Most street riders won't make this purchase.  Also, the seller may not see the use of switching back to a stock set before resale.

• Tire wear.  If the tires are worn all the way to the edge, most likely it's been on the track.  Granted, there are riders who ride hard on the street, and will use most of the tire, but if the tires are used all the way to the edge, ask questions.  If the opposite is true, and the middle is almost bald, burnouts might have been an issue.

• Frame scratches.  The plastic looks great, but the bike underneath looks well used.  You might think that every crash results in major damage.  This just isn't true.  The bike may have slid off the track, with only small scratches appearing on the frame.  If there are small scratches, ask questions.

• Look close at the gas tank.  Get right down near the metal and see if there are any small dents or imperfections.  In most cases the tank will hit the ground during a hard crash.  If there are "any" bents (no matter how small) ask questions.

The only thing left is to get out there, take it easy for the first few track days, and ride hard.

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Track Days; are they only for riders looking for a “Thrill”?

I can remember my first track day as if it happened yesterday.  I got a group of friends together, showed up at the event, and stumbled my way through the day.  I wasn’t sure where to park, how to register, and wasn’t sure which group best fit my riding ability.  As I walked through the pits, my street clothed bike looked somewhat less of a bike.  I found myself wondering if I belonged, and started to doubt why I was there in the first place.  The street looked great now, even after being the main reason for my attendance the night before.  If you thinking that this doesn’t sound like fun; remember, I made some mistakes.

While I did show up with some friends, they were as lost as me.  A classic case of the blind leading the blind.  Meet some riders that have attended a few track days, and see if they mind if you share their pit.  Often you will be invited in, and they’re excited about having you tag along.  I make it a point at our store to put out the invitation.  It’s not uncommon for us to have several new track riders in our pit.  It makes every track day a little extra special, and allows us to talk bikes with those that are truly excited about being there.  I personally love to hear on track stories from first timers.  It allows me to understand why we are there, which is to have fun.

There are several other advantages to teaming with a few veteran track riders.  As you will find out; tools, gear, and other odd and end items start to accumulate.  These items can be the difference between a great day, and going home.  Nothing's worse than needing a tool to make a simple repair, and not having the tool at your finger tips.  While you can walk the pits and ask other riders, becoming part of a group allows you to share the load.  Odds are that you will be back, so every track day you’ll be more prepared.

Bike Preparation

What do you need to do to your bike?  Simple, nothing really.  Other than change out your radiator fluid to something track friendly (Engine Ice) tape over your headlight, turn signals, and put gas in the tank, there’s typically very little you must do.  If your tires are in good condition, leave them alone.  There is no need to run out and buy something “more sporty”.  This first day you’ll be overloaded, and your stock tires are plenty.  Over time you might decide to change to something a little more track specific, but most first time track riders never come close to pushing street tires to their limit.

Equipment

All track day organizers have a “minimum” list of equipment.  Check before you go, and be open to purchasing something new.  However, don’t assume that equipment needs to be purchased.  Often, most riders have what they need in their closet.

I tell our customers that there are four “must haves” before they roll onto the track.

1. A helmet that fits well.  Of course this is a given, but if you’re in love with that “classic” and it doesn’t fit very snug, get something new.  Most tracks have a straight, and on this straight you will be going faster (for longer periods of time) than you have on the street.  A helmet that is even slightly loose will shift.  Think about it, you may get up to 140mph+.  That’s a LOT of air and force colliding with your helmet.  A loose helmet can limit your fun.  I've found that even a super snug helmet can shift a little at speed.  When you're tucked behind your wind screen, then pop up to brake, shift, or adjust your body to make a turn, a loose helmet will distract you.

Special Note:  If you have a helmet that has a removable liner, save yourself some money and buy a smaller (snugger) liner.  When at the track, use this liner to limit helmet movement.  It may be too snug for everyday riding, but will solve your fit issue.  In the summer months I've been known to leave an extra liner in the cooler.  Before the session I grab it, wring out the excess water, and slap it in my helmet.  The cool water, combined with the evaporative effect makes for a cool head.  Make sure you give it a GOOD wringing, or water may drip into your eyes...

1. Good “race designed” gloves.  If you happen to crash, your hands will make contact with the track.  With more track time, and a few crashes, you'll teach yourself not to “reach” for the ground.  But since it’s your first “track crash” your instincts will take over, and your hands will come out to break your fall.  A good high quality glove can save you from injury.  I sustained a thumb injury by simply putting my hand down to pick myself up during a slid.  A good rule of thumb (pardon the pun), is to wait a few seconds after you stop sliding before you do anything.  You might think you've stopped, or slowed down enough, but fingers and joints break easy.
2. The most overlooked piece of equipment by new riders is a back protector.  The thought behind this is simple to me…  I would miss walking.  They come in all shapes and sizes, and all are good.  I use an Alpinestars model, but most leather manufacturers produce them.  Don’t skimp.  The back protector you buy will last a lifetime, so spend a little extra and get something of quality.
3. The last item is very cheap, but can have a huge influence on the “fun factor”.  This item would be ear plugs.  Don’t leave home without them.

As you noticed I didn’t include leathers, or boots.  Many track day organizations rent leathers, so make a call and find out.  If you fall in love with the track (and you will), you can purchase knowing a little about what you want.  If you do choose to purchase, there are two categories.  One piece or two piece.

If you’re thinking you’re going to be attending more than 6 track days a year, or racing in the future, buy a one piece suit.  They simple offer a better fit (in most cases), and are safer overall (no zipper to give way).  A two piece suit is perfect for those wanting something a little more versatile.  They are more practical when on everyday rides, or weekend street rides.  But be cautioned, if you get addicted to the track you’ll be looking for a one piece suit in no time.

Boots typically follow your leather suit purchase.  If you take the leap to buy a suit, purchase a good set of boots.  They are designed to work as a team with your suit, and will add a ton of protection for your ankles and toes.  Can you get away with using work boots, or hiking boots?  Yes, but you’ll be more comfortable in a pair of riding boots.

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Tire warmers are for one reason only, to make the tire pliable and adjust the surface tension.  As we all know, everyone wants a sticky tire, which in turn will help keep the bike hooked-up in the corners.  The surface tension is what being "sticky" is all about.

Most are not aware that all tires are not identical, even if they are of the same model.  You can take 10 Dunlop D208GP's and each will have a slightly different surface tension.  In other motor sports, technicians use a Durometer to test this very thing.  They will go through a stack of tires, and with the Durometer, pick out the ones with the correct readings.

Tire warmers allow the tire to get to the correct temperature so they will be at the ideal surface tension.  Of course tires are made of rubber, which we all know will melt if heated to a certain point.  This is the battle the tire manufactures go through in manufacturing tires.  They want a tire compound which will act in a certain way, at the average temperature generated while is use.  They vary the compound so the tire will maintain a specified surface tension while at track temperature.

What does this mean?  If you warm the tire to the tires ideal operating temperature, the tire will react as designed.  Nothing more.  Often you will hear about "tire-cycles".  This is where the tire heats to it's ideal operating temperature, then cools to below this mark.  This would be one cycle.  Others claim that by using tire warmers, you will limit the tire to one cycle, and this will allow the tire to last longer.  I won't dive into this subject, but don't buy warmers just because you want to extend the life of your tires.  Buy them because you want to ensure that your tires are set-up to perform at their ideal performance level, right from the first lap.

There's other important issues to think about when talking about tires.  Like I mentioned earlier, every tire is different, but differences between tires models should also be considered.  Dunlop and Metzler are slower (typically) to warm to their ideal temperature, while Pirelli' heat-up quickly and cool quickly.  On, and off the track this effects how the tire will react.  When using a tire warmer in the pits, it may only take 30 minutes to warm a Pirelli tire, while the Dunlop's may take 60 minutes.  These tires react the same on the track.  Pilelli's cooling slightly in the straights before the next turn, while the Dunlop's will retain more heat throughout the session.

NOTE:  As I type this, new tires are coming out everyday.  Dual compound tires seem to be the going rage, and from our last two track sessions, appears to be a sound call.  Because of the ever changing World of tires, ask someone from the company for advise.  He should be able to steer you in the right direction.

There are several different concepts on how tire warmers should be built, and how they should operate.  Most warmers use a sleeve to warm the tire, and use a insulator to maintain the heat inside the warmer.  Here is where the differences come into play.  Several manufactures join the heating element and the insulator.  These warmers cover only the tire, and much of the wheel is visible.  The downside to this set-up is heat loss.  Heat will escape the warmer, so temperatures are increased to make up for the loss.  This can lead to "Hot-Spots", and the overheating of the rubber compound.  It can also give the appearance that the tire is warmed correctly, but "deep" warming has not occurred.  Only the surface of the tire is warm, while just below the surface is still below the optimum tire temperature.  Excessive heat can also chafe the tires surface, or even melt it.

The TyrSox is unique in that it uses lower heating levels, and uses a separate insulating cover.  This cover incorporates the entire wheel, so the warming effect involves the whole wheel assembly.  It also traps more heat inside, heating the tire below the surface, slowly.

Tire warmers are about becoming more consistent, period.  Trying to make the bike the same every time it hits the track.  This is our recommendation on how to use your tire warmers on a typical track/race day.

Check your tire pressure when the tires are cold, and use a grease pencil to make a note on top of your tank.  Put on your tire warmers about 60 minutes before the first event, and before taking the track, check the tire pressure again.  Make a second note on the tank.  Once the session is complete, take the pressure one last time.  Play around with the pressures until you find your ideal set-up.  Once you get a system down, you'll know what your cold pressure reading should be to achieve the best on-track pressure. 

If you're in the pits for a short time, do you need to put the warmers back on?  This is the rule we use.  If you're going to be in the pits for more than 30 minutes, put on the warmers.

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